In the midst of cold, recession, and the general barrenness of winter, it’s lovely to have a freezer and cupboard full of food that we grew and preserved ourselves back in the summer. We did pretty well this time: canned tomatoes, canned green tomatoes, turnip pickles (you know you want some), canned pear chutney (we didn’t grow the pears, but my uncle did), stacks of frozen poblanos and jalapenos, frozen pesto, a few bags of frozen chard, green beans, and beet greens. We’re likely to run out of the tomatoes in the next month or so, and we’re making pretty good time through the peppers too, in spite of the staggering amount we managed to put up. But however you look at it, it’s a nice stash.
Then there’s the tatsoi.
Tatsoi seemed like such a good idea last March. This small, delicate Chinese mustard green is bok choi’s cute cousin. When it’s really young, it’s lovely in salads with toasted sesame oil. When it gets a little more mature, you toss it in stir-fries. The flavor is sort of a delicate peppery cabbagey something, subtle, ever so slightly kicky. It’s a sassy little brassica. Nice, if you like that kind of thing.
I do, or did, at any rate. My friend Sarah, on the other hand, with whom we garden, wanted nothing to do with it. She likes her greens with about as much kick as a béchamel sauce. Butter lettuce is her speed. However, the garden space in her backyard is large, and having plenty of space for her milder choices, she didn’t begrudge me the huge, long row of tatsoi I put in, all the while rhapsodizing in a superior manner about the greatness of spicy greens that I was sure she could come to love if she would only open her mind.
My comeuppance has arrived in the form of a freezer that spews pint bags of frozen tatsoi at my head whenever it is opened. I’ll be headed for something way more inviting: the pesto, perhaps, or the smoky Spanish paprika I keep fresh in there, and the tatsoi will assert itself. The message is always the same: Ignore me, and I will still be here in April when the farmer’s market is full of arugula and baby spinach and mesclun salad mix. I will gather frost, and acquire freezer burn flavor, and you know damn well that you will still be too much of a Mennonite to throw me away. You will be forcing me down in May, and in June you will desperately invent a bread recipe involving whirled tatsoi that will make everyone in your house throw up.
Sometime around the third week of August, when I was spending every other evening cramming steamed tatsoi into baggies, I questioned the wisdom of planting a huge crop of a green that is most at home in cuisines about which I know next to nothing. Every year I resolve to learn more about Chinese food, and somehow I always fail; it’s just too vast. I can make you the same pan-pseudo-Asian tofu stir-fry that you will find in the home of every vegetarian, and I have been known to toy with the odd Sichuan peppercorn, but really, I have no clue. I exhausted my tatsoi potential in June. By August, I was well into my usual late-summer Mediterranean tomato orgy and wanted nothing to do with the stuff.
I do not believe people who tell me that suffusing plants with “good energy” makes them grow better. Every time I sawed at those tatsoi stems, I sent them horrid thoughts: Die, you relentless bastards, or worse, I WISH YOU WERE CHARD. And yet we were harvesting it by the bushelful on a weekly basis. I could have let the whole patch go to seed and no one would have missed it, but I’m a Midwesterner and I don’t do things like that. If there is edible vegetable matter to be harvested in my vicinity and a workable means of preserving it, I know my duty.
We eat a lot of greens in this house; kale, collards, napa cabbage, turnip greens, chard—we love them all, and it requires so little effort to make them good. And generally speaking, all these things hold up well in the freezer, and have a thousand culinary uses. But all we really have left is this effing tatsoi, which, due to that squirrely brassica edge it has, cannot be workably substituted for any of these other lovely greens in any recipe worth its salt.
Last night Eric made a Thai curry, as he generally does at least once a week. When it comes to Mexican or Thai food, my job is to cook the rice and wash the dishes; his versions are much better and I am hopeless with coconut milk. I did offer to make greens on the side, however. “Oh yeah, that’d be great!” he enthused, perhaps thinking that I had some nice kale in the fridge. I opened the freezer and reached for a baggie. “Oh,” he said. “You mean that.”
While he was finishing up I did my standard tatsoi preparation: a little chili sesame oil, a few crushed Sichuan peppercorns, a quick sauté. Eric finished his curry, which was golden and fabulous, scattered with exquisite flecks of cilantro. I’m talking cooking magazine cover material here; I don’t how he did it, but it was perfect. My tatsoi, on the other hand, looked like something that Popeye might dump out of a can, a deep green muck scattered with stringy stems. It tasted only slightly better than it looked. But maybe that’s just because we’re so bloody sick of it.
I haven’t counted, but I think there are at least twenty more pints of it to go. If there are any frozen tatsoi experts reading, now would be the time to step forward with your wisdom.
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